Rooney’s in Long Branch knocks it out of the park with fresh seafood and views to die for

By:  | September 27, 2024 |  Dining | 

By Ryan Loughlin

The idea of a waterfront restaurant is a popular one within any coastal community, but to say that Rooney’s Oceanfront Restaurant in Long Branch is just another restaurant with a pretty view of the ocean would be painfully underselling it.

Since opening its doors nearly 30 years ago (the restaurant will celebrate that milestone in June of 2025), Rooney’s has been the go-to spot for a special occasion dinner in Long Branch. Its stellar reputation among locals is unwavering, and it’s easy to see why. A sprawling restaurant, Rooney’s manages to be luxurious without feeling stuffy, its expansive space divided in a series of levels and surrounded by sweeping walls of retractable windows, making the entirety of its footprint feel open, airy and inviting.

At night, even the bar area glows with soft illumination, resulting in an enchanting atmosphere throughout, and Friday evenings feature live music to pick things up just in time for the weekend. Outdoor seating is also available for those looking to be even closer to the salt air and squawking seagulls, but even on the chilliest days of the offseason, the vibe indoors somehow channels the serenity of summer.

 And all that is before you have taken your first bite.

An Unforgettable Meal

All the atmosphere in the world won’t matter if your restaurant can’t back it up in the kitchen. Luckily, Rooney’s absolutely hits it out of the park with their menus, offering up noticeable creativity without sacrificing the familiarity of the core flavors of each dish. The restaurant is open daily for lunch and dinner. Their Sunday buffet brunch — which runs from now through Easter Sunday — has been a fan favorite since its inception and is ranked among Open Table’s 100 Best Brunches in the Country.

We began our dinner with a round of cocktails – the Blueberry Smash (a delightful mix of vodka, muddled blueberries, agave nectar, ginger beer and a hint of lime); and the Hibiscus Haze, a pleasingly floral drink consisting of Griffy's Organics Grapefruit Hibiscus, Hendrick's Gin, simple syrup, fresh lime juice and ginger beer. Being that our visit took place at the tail end of the summer season, we went with lighter, more summery cocktails, but keep an eye out for their fall menu, which will feature a few new additions.

Though we stuck with cocktails on our visit, fans of the vino will be happy to hear that Rooney’s has received the Wine Spectator Awad of Excellence every year for the last 25 years straight.

For appetizers, things started off strong with the fabulous Tuna Bruschetta, a fun mashup of Asian and Italian inspiration consisting of spears of toast topped with seared rare tuna, spicy guac, a wasabi and ginger based sauce accented brilliantly by sesame seeds on a bed of seaweed salad.

We also sampled the Whole Baked Artichoke, a more traditional Italian favorite, prepared in a lovely scampi sauce with parmesan cheese and breadcrumbs.

Other apps that we were curious about (but didn’t get to this time) included Coconut Curry Mussels, Char-Grilled Oysters (a New Orleans favorite of mine that everyone should try even if they are generally averse to oysters) and the Crispy Goat Cheese, with its decadent stacking of breaded deep-fried pillows of goat cheese, honey candied pecans, red pepper jam, and grilled bread.

And for those who appreciate a fabulous raw bar, Rooney’s offers one of the finest in Monmouth County, with everything from Rochambeau oysters and Middleneck clams sold individually, to massive towers of chilled seafood packed with lobster, shrimp, oysters and more.

The Main Event

Perhaps the most difficult decision of the evening was choosing our entrees. The menu here offers a dizzying selection of main dishes, with the result in our case being a serious bit of FOMO, however that just gave us an excuse to come back and try something different next time, so no harm, no foul.

One can opt for a selection from their fish board, which offers the flexibility of selecting not only the fish of your choice (Atlantic salmon, shrimp, branzino, halibut, yellowfin tuna or the fresh catch of the day) but also the preparation (blackened, broiled, grilled or pan-seared), the side sauce (sweet chili and garlic, lemon butter, tomato vinaigrette, “angry style” or chimichurri), and the pair of side dishes (garlic mashed potatoes, mashed gouda cauliflower, crispy Brussels sprouts, mushroom risotto or grilled asparagus).

Other seafood options include a full mini menu of lobster dishes alongside other treasures from the sea such as Wasabi Panko Tuna, a Shrimp and Scallops combo, Crabcakes, a variety of seafood-based pasta dishes like the Cioppino, which comes with mahi mahi, shrimp, clams and garlic in a tomato broth; and the Lobster Mac-A-Rooney, a fancied-up version of a comfort food classic with fresh lobster, parmesan and mozzarella and macaroni in a rich lobster cream sauce.

Those who shy away from seafood have plenty to choose from as well, as carnivorous options such as a Braised Lamb Shank or classic Angus Beef Skirt Steak (served in a chimichurri sauce with parmesan truffle fries) will more than satisfy, as will pasta options like the Spicy Rigatoni with Calabrian chilis in a tomato cream sauce with whipped ricotta and parmesan; or Chef Jared’s Fresh Pasta of the Week.

After much hemming and hawing, we opted for the Lazy Poached Lobster — a wildly indulgent entrée consisting of a fully de-shelled 2-pound lobster resting upon a bed of gnocchi in a marvelous brown butter cream sauce — and the 14-ounce Premium Reserve Pork Chop, a wonderful bone-in delight with masterfully seared edges, all finished with a bourbon apricot glaze that complemented the mild, somewhat understated flavor of the pork without masking it entirely. The chop came with crispy Brussels sprouts and a mound of garlic mashed potatoes that will put to shame anything your mother makes this Thanksgiving.

Despite stuffing ourselves to near breaking point, we couldn’t say no to the dessert menu, which mostly played it safe with beloved classics like Lava Cake, Tiramisu and Junior’s Cheesecake. We opted for the Key Lime Pie as well as the aforementioned cheesecake, which came topped with a tart strawberry puree which nicely balanced the sweetness of the cheesecake itself. The pie was creamy and almost pudding-like, with the subtle sour of the lime playing well with the whipped cream and buttery crust. It all made for a perfect ending to a perfect meal and did so without having to reinvent the wheel. Some things are favorites for a reason and stand the test of time … much like Rooney’s itself.